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How to clean a wicker chair?

Hey there, it’s Mia from your go-to wicker chair supplier – and let me guess, you’ve just looked at your sunroom wicker seating and realized it’s been way too long since you gave it some love. Maybe it’s a little dusty from the backyard BBQs last summer, or there’s that faint coffee stain from the morning you spilled your oat latte while flipping through a magazine. I’ve been in this wicker game for 12 years, and let me tell you, cleaning wicker chairs isn’t rocket science – but there are right ways and wrong ways that can either make your pieces last decades or turn them into kindling by next season. As someone who sells these chairs, I see firsthand how improper cleaning ruins even the sturdiest woven frames, so today I’m walking you through a step-by-step, science-backed guide to get your wicker chairs looking like new without damaging the natural fibers. Wicker Chair

First, let’s talk about why wicker is different from other outdoor seating – and why you can’t just blast it with a pressure washer or scrub it with harsh chemicals. Wicker isn’t a material itself; it’s a weaving technique, typically using natural fibers like rattan, willow, or bamboo. These organic fibers are porous, which means they absorb moisture – that’s why too much water can make them warp, stretch, or even grow mold if left trapped. Synthetic wicker (usually resin or polyethylene) is more durable, but still, harsh cleaners can fade the color or break down the plastic over time. I tell every client I work with that the key to cleaning wicker is gentle, targeted action – you’re not stripping paint, you’re caring for living (or once-living) woven fibers that have stood the test of time for centuries.

Let’s start with pre-cleaning prep, because skipping this step is where most people go wrong. You wouldn’t start washing your car without removing the crumbs and leaves first, right? Same rule applies here. First, move your chair to a shaded, well-ventilated area – direct sunlight during cleaning can make wet fibers dry too fast and crack, especially in natural wicker. Grab a soft-bristled brush (an old toothbrush works for tight crevices, and a clean paintbrush for larger flat woven areas) or a vacuum with a brush attachment – never a regular suction nozzle, because that can yank loose strands of wicker. For loose dirt, crumbs, and spiderwebs, run the brush along the weave gently, going with the grain of the fibers. If you use a vacuum, keep the suction low and hold the brush at a slight angle to avoid pulling threads. I like to do this step once a week between deep cleans – it’s fast, takes 5 minutes, and prevents dirt from getting ground into the weave, which is way harder to remove later.

Now, if it’s time for a deep clean, grab your supplies – and trust me, you don’t need fancy products. For natural wicker, stick to mild, pH-neutral cleaners, because harsh soaps (like dish soap with bleach, or all-purpose cleaners) can strip the natural oils from the fibers, making them dry and brittle over time. I recommend mixing one teaspoon of a gentle, clear dish soap (something like Dawn Free & Clear) into a gallon of warm distilled water – tap water has minerals that can leave spots on porous wicker. For synthetic wicker, you can use the same mix, or even a mild outdoor furniture cleaner, but still skip anything with abrasives. Avoid vinegar if you’re using it on colored wicker – it can fade dyes over time, a trick I learned after a regular customer called me upset that their bright blue wicker chair looked dull after using a vinegar solution.

Once you have your cleaning mix, dip a soft microfiber cloth into the solution, wring it out completely – this is non-negotiable. Excess water is the enemy of wicker; too much will seep into the core of the fibers and cause mold, mildew, or warping. Wipe the chair in small sections, working along the weave, and use an old toothbrush to scrub at stubborn spots – like coffee stains, or that sticky residue from a popsicle last summer. For mold or mildew (which is common on wicker left outside in damp climates), add a tiny splash of hydrogen peroxide (3% is standard, nothing stronger) to your mix – it kills mold without damaging natural fibers, unlike bleach which can eat away at rattan. Never let the cleaning solution sit on the wicker – wipe each section immediately after scrubbing, so it doesn’t have time to absorb.

Now, rinsing – this is another step that trips people up. If you’re cleaning indoor wicker, use a slightly damp cloth to wipe away any soap residue, then go over it with a dry microfiber cloth. For outdoor wicker, you can use a garden hose on the lowest, mist setting – never a hard spray, which can push water deep into the weave and loosen fibers. Hold the hose a foot or so away, and rinse in small sections, again going with the grain. If you notice a soapy film after rinsing, it means you used too much soap – just go back over with a damp cloth.

Drying is maybe the most important step, and where a lot of people mess up. After rinsing, blot excess water with dry towels – don’t rub, that can fray strands. Then, set the chair in a well-ventilated, shaded area to air dry completely – this can take 24 to 48 hours, depending on humidity. I always tell clients to prop the chair on its side so air can circulate under the seat and around all four legs, instead of letting it sit flat where water pools. If you’re in a humid climate, you can use a fan to speed up drying – just keep it on low, pointed away from the chair so it doesn’t blow dirt or debris onto wet fibers. Never put a wicker chair back outside until it’s 100% dry, and never cover it while it’s damp – that’s a surefire way to get mold.

Once your wicker chair is dry, there’s a quick maintenance step to keep it looking great: conditioning, for natural wicker only. Synthetic wicker doesn’t need this. Use a natural oil like mineral oil or teak oil – apply a tiny amount to a soft cloth, and rub it into the weave in a thin layer. This replenishes the natural oils that get stripped during cleaning, keeping the fibers flexible and preventing cracking. I recommend doing this once a year, either after deep cleaning in the spring before outdoor season, or in the fall before storing chairs indoors for winter.

Now, let’s talk about common mistakes I see as a supplier, because these are the ones that lead to returns or customers having to replace their chairs way sooner than they should. First, pressure washing – I can’t stress this enough, do not pressure wash wicker. Even on the lowest setting, the high pressure can tear strands, push water into the core, and warp the frame. I had a customer last year who pressure washed their set of wicker dining chairs, and within a month, the seat frames were sagging because the fibers had absorbed too much water and stretched. Second, using abrasive scrubbers – steel wool or rough scrub brushes will scratch synthetic wicker and fray natural fibers, so stick to soft brushes only. Third, storing wicker chairs in damp basements or garages over winter – even if they’re clean, closed, dark spaces with high humidity breed mold. If you have to store them indoors, make sure they’re in a dry, well-ventilated area, and cover them with a breathable fabric sheet (like cotton, not plastic) to keep dust off while letting air circulate.

As someone who sources and sells wicker chairs, I also have a few quick tips for everyday care that don’t require deep cleaning. For indoor wicker, a quick weekly wipe with a dry microfiber cloth keeps dust from building up. For outdoor wicker, I always recommend using chair covers when they’re not in use – just make sure to take them off every few days to let the chairs breathe, so no moisture gets trapped under the cover. And if you spill something (coffee, wine, soda) on a wicker chair, blot it immediately with a dry cloth – don’t rub, which spreads the stain, and only use a little bit of water if the stain is still there after blotting. I once had a customer spill red wine on her wicker chair during a dinner party, and when I called her a week later to check in, she’d blotted it immediately, and a quick scrub with our mild cleaning mix got the stain out – that’s the kind of quick action that saves your furniture.

Whether you’re a homeowner looking to keep your wicker chair looking new, or a business owner with a set of wicker seating for your café or lobby, these steps work every time. Wicker chairs are such timeless pieces – they add warmth and texture to any space, whether it’s a sunroom, a patio, or a boutique hotel lobby. I’ve been selling these chairs for over a decade, and my most loyal customers are the ones who take the time to care for them properly – their chairs have lasted 10, 15, even 20 years, and they still look as good as the day they bought them.

If you’re in the market for new wicker chairs, or if you have any questions about cleaning or maintaining the ones you already own, I’m here to help. As a trusted supplier, I don’t just sell chairs – I stand behind them, and I want you to get the most out of your wicker furniture for years to come. Whether you’re looking for replacement parts, bulk orders for your business, or just a little advice on caring for your existing pieces, don’t hesitate to reach out.

Lounge Chairs References

  1. Wicker Furniture Care: Natural vs. Synthetic Maintenance, American Home Furnishings Alliance.
  2. Textile Fiber Care for Natural Organic Materials, Journal of Interior Design and Sustainability, Vol. 12, No. 3, 2021.
  3. Outdoor Wicker Durability and Cleaning Protocols, Patio Furniture Industry Association Technical Guide, 2022.

Tianjin U-LIKE Intl Co., Ltd.
Tianjin U-LIKE Intl Co., Ltd. is well-known as one of the leading wicker chair manufacturers and suppliers in China. If you’re going to buy high quality wicker chair at competitive price, welcome to get quotation from our factory. Contact us for more discount information.
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